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SUBCULTURE OR TREND VICTIMS?

AE21F1DB-ABFC-49C7-8AD6-99D4A8684806_4_5

by Philippe Lagrange

HOW SOCIAL MEDIA TURNED SUBCULTURES FROM A FORM OF RESISTANCE INTO A CONSUMABLE TREND

LONDON PUNK MOVEMENT, PHOTOGRAPHED BY JANETTE BECKMAN (1972)

YOU ARE NOT A TRUE SUBCULTURE BECAUSE YOU KNOW, WHAT’S FASHIONABLE AT THE MOMENT AND JUDGE OTHERS FOR NOT KNOWING. THIS ARCHIVE, UNDERGROUND AND POST INTERNET FASHION BUBBLE LOVES TO BRAND THEMSELVES AS A NEW WAVE SUBCULTURE IN OUR CONTEMPORARY TIMES, BUT IN REALITY THEY ARE QUITE THE OPPOSITE. THEY CHECK OFF ALMOST EVERY POINT, MENTIONED BY SOCIOLOGIST DICK HEBDIGE IN HIS BOOK “SUBCULTURE: THE MEANING OF STYLE“. CLOTHING, LANGUAGE, RITUALS, MUSIC CAN ALL BE FOUND, BUT THEY ARE MISSING THE MOST CRUCIAL POINT: VALUES. TRUE SUBCULTURES HAVE BEEN CREATING A UNITY THROUGH STYLE, VALUES AND POLITICAL ATTITUDES FOR CENTURIES, WHICH WAS THEN EXUDED INTO THE OUTSIDE WORLD THROUGH FASHION. THEIR STYLE BECAME A MIRROR OF THE TRUE ESSENCE OF THEIR SUBCULTURES, INSTEAD OF BEING THE MOST IMPORTANT POINT. THIS CAN ALSO BE SEEN IN THE HIGH FASHION WORLD THAT, LIKE NO OTHER „BUBBLE“, THRIVES THROUGH DISTINCTION. PEOPLE WHO KNOW WHAT’S ON TREND AND FASHIONABLE AT THE TIME, JUDGE AND DISTINCT THEMSELVES FROM OTHERS WHO CAN’T AFFORD TO KNOW IT, WHILE MISSING OUT ON THE TRUE MEANING BEHIND THEIR STYLES. WHY ARE YOU WEARING IT? WHAT ARE YOU INDIRECTLY SAYING BY WEARING IT? 

CURRENT STYLE

1980S DEATHROCK/PUNK STYLE

LONDON PUNKS, PHOTOGRAPHED BY JANETTE BECKMAN (1972)

VETEMENTS SPRING SUMMER 2023

GOTH SIOUXSIE SIOUX (1984)

FASHION HAS BEEN STEALING FROM SUBCULTURES LIKE EMOS, GOTHS AND PUNKS FOR DECADES, AND RESOLD THEM LATER AS FASHION TRENDS. THIS CAN BE PERFECTLY SEEN THROUGH SAFETY PINS, WHICH HAVE BEEN A STAPLE FOR THE “ANTI - FASHION MOVEMENT“ BY PUNKS IN THE 1970S. NOWADAYS, THIS ASPECT HAS BEEN RETRANSLATED INTO FASHION AND COMMERCIALISED INTO MAIN CULTURE, WHILE WASHING AWAY ITS ORIGINAL MEANING : REBELLION, INDIVIDUALITY, PROVOCATION AND DIY INSTEAD OF CONSUMPTION. IF YOU ARE A PERSON, WHO’S INTO FASHION AND SEE YOURSELF YEARNING FOR TRUE SUBSTANCE, LOOK FOR PEOPLE WHO HAVE BEEN LIVING IN THESE SUBCULTURES FOR YEARS AND HOLD THEIR OWN STYLES, NO MATTER WHAT THE TRENDS ARE.

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